Jan 26, 2008

i HEART basalt

the bulk of the last few weeks was spent in aspen, meeting friends at high altitudes near chairlifts and double blacks, clinking cocktails at the appropriate après ski hour of 3:30, and chatting fireside late into the evening before starting the routine again in the morning. those customary happenings in place, i opted to add a new tradition to my colorado holiday: time out in basalt.

effectively the younger sibling to the older and wiser aspen, basalt ranks as one of the most flourishing and urbane tiny towns in the country. officially populated at slightly over 3,000, basalt combines the unassuming air of a colorado mountain town, hinting at its outdoor orientation (flyfishing, mountian biking, skiing), with a slightly more knowing feel of a cultivated oasis (fine dining, boutiques, and expensive art). seemingly relegated to second place behind aspen's superior reputation, basalt still hits the mark where it counts.


many of the residents of the town are previously full-time aspen residents, and the move "down valley" was predicated by a desire to purchase property at a lower-priced ticket than the impossible sky-high real estate market in aspen allows. and since i have a number of friends who have made the valley their home, it follows that i have a number of friends who now reside in basalt. which is how i found myself, days on end, enjoying visits to the local coffee shop and sights of the roaring fork river from the comfort of my friend amanda's home.

among basalt's noteworthy exports are the delicately sweet, flaky 'morning buns' at the tiny cafe bernard. located smack dab in the middle of downtown, that description of the cafe doesn't go very far in pointing out the whereabouts of the restaurant, as everything in the two-block town is essentially in its middle. the cafe is more notable for its cheery blue exterior and large window framing the tiny seating area. early each day, morning buns—a sort of hybrid sticky roll and croissant—are placed at the counter and quickly disappear with locals and visitors headed up valley to the slopes.

probably the best and least obvious choice for a relaxing day in town is a visit to the town center booksellers, directly across the street from cafe bernard. specifically, it's one of the two large armchairs sitting before the hot crackling fire that is the destination. sitting for an hour or two in the calm bookstore setting is enhanced by the bookstore's offering of complimentary coffee and tea. for its role as a small-town bookstore, the shop exceeds expectations, offering the best in new fiction and non-fiction, well-curated art books, and a pleasant children's nook. and did i mention free coffee? yes, and free (delicious too!) coffee.

for a bite of lunch, choosing between discreet val's gourmet and popular saxy's cafe is a toss up. saxy's, while not quite making my list of top coffee joints in the country, hits the spot with a cozy atmosphere, a good assortment of panini, and the much-beloved wifi. i may be partial to saxy's, however, because of the friendly staff. one girl in particular, rebecca, became such a good friend during my short stay that she nearly joined me in my road trip back to los angeles. at the last minute, she pulled out of the deal, due to work conflicts, but she made up for my supposed openness by sending me off with a gigantic free latte on the morning of my departure.

and for a delicious evening on the town, there is no better option that than the italian-infused spanish cuisine of tempranillo. between the long communal table in the bar, the cozy entranceway flanked by a bench and coat rack (note the absence of the often pesky coat check girl usually found in aspen establishments), and the truly gregarious waitstaff, tempranillo easily secured my vote for best dining experience during my three week visit in the roaring fork valley. specifically, the inclination of our server to continue filling our wine glasses long after the bottle was finished, the two extra desserts complimentarily set on our table, and the most delicious gambas barcelona—freshly roasted shrimp complemented by a rich, tangy sauce of tomato and ginger—catapulted the evening's outing into a surefire entry into this account.

back to the city i go, where the traffic never stops, pretentious dining abounds, and starbucks and borders flank every great intersection in the expansive populated mass. i fondly think of my days by the river, next to the fire, and buried under the colorado snow.

6 comments:

Anonymous said...

great review patrick; makes me want to be there enjoying the free coffee and fine dining-dad

Kylee S. said...

I am not a skier(although I attempted it twice)but everything seems amazing; lots of shopping, elegent eating and tasty cocktails.

-Kylee

Tina J said...

I noticed that the previous post had 8 comments and this one only had 2, so I thought I should reinforce positive behavior by telling you how much I liked this one! So, I've decided that I will settle for a house in Basalt instead of Aspen someday when you are R & F.
Love you, Patrick
Mom

Tina J said...

I noticed that the previous post had 8 comments and this one only had 2, so I thought I should reinforce positive behavior by telling you how much I liked this one! So, I've decided that I will settle for a house in Basalt instead of Aspen someday when you are R & F.
Love you, Patrick
Mom

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sean said...

one year hiatus? unprecedented! we miss the thoughts from you!